Saturday 15th May
We were banged awake at 5:30 and got up soon after. We left before 7 after much haggling by our new friend who was of the same opinion as us that the nasty man is a shark. We set off up a pretty treacherous but very beautiful road, with spectacular mountain snow-capped peaks at either end. After about an hour we reached a chai house where our friend bought us tea and banana biscuits – very good.
Our friend found a coolie who was very poorly dressed with only sackcloth on his feet, gaping at the heels. He took both our bags plus friend’s suitcase – all for Rs.30 – so little for such an arduous journey.
The climb up to the pass was first by a steep path up to the road, which we followed for sometime, as it led straight in the direction of the pass. I fell over on the path trying to overtake a coolie, luckily no harm done, but a nasty moment.
There was still a lot of snow but by now hard packed and paths cut into it. We met several donkey and mule trains carrying cigarettes and things. Going up over the pass like us were many men carrying large plastic 5 gallon debes [plastic water/petrol containers] on their backs for petrol – which fetch Rs.20 in Chitral.
The final ascent to Lowari Top (10,500 feet) was very steep and all in snow.
[According to Wikipedia, ‘the Pass entails inherent risks. A significant concern may be the imminent threat posed by deadly avalanches, which can occur abruptly and without warning. This is dangerous, as there are high mountains on each side of Lowari Top. Several people traversing the Pass in winters become the victims of avalanche fatalities. Their bodies are buried under the snow and it is only when the summer comes and the snow melts that their bodies are found.‘]
The air actually was very thin, making climbing difficult. We stopped halfway up (our friend to smoke one of his super kings) and he ordered his servant to massage my legs which he did and most beautifully too. He then did my back and shoulders, putting me in a better shape for the last bit – and I reached the top first!
Up on top we had tea and biscuits (banana of course) and then made for the way down – believe it or not the coolie had made it first with all his baggage! The descent was easy at first, snow of course, lots of it, being a north facing slope. We went along the road (what was left of it) for a bit and then cut off many miles by going on paths straight down like this
We went in and out of snow drifts and, where it had melted, lovely Alpine flowers – gentian type, Crocus type (yellow) and pink, all growing among the pine trees and soft brown earth. It was very steep and there were lots of loose stones making descent very difficult, so my charming friend help me nearly all the way.
The petrol bearers had an ingenious way of going down a very steep snowy bit that we avoided – they put theirdebes in front of them and held onto the string behind and pushed off, letting the debe’s weight carry them down, like a sledge – a truly amazing sight.
We walked and then we ran a long way through soft snow and our poor friend had a terrible time slipping over and sliding about. We reached below the snow line at last and recuperated with tea before setting off down the road, completely washed away by the torrent still in evidence.
At first the walk was quite pleasant, but the further down we got the hotter it became the thirstier we – but there were many fresh mountain streams which we washed and drank in – sparkling and marvellously cold – but at some stage I had sprained my knee and my little toe rubbed on my shoe and I could feel every stone through the thinning soles. [ I was wearing an old pair of Bata desert boots which never made it back!]
It was terrible expecting to see the mythical Isharet around every corner – we were told it was two miles but it was more like five – eventually physically and, by this time, spiritually despairing and exhausted, we rounded the corner and far off on the other side saw five jeeps lined up – what joy! No time for tea – we boarded a jeep, front seats, very rickety – discovered our friends from the bus to Dir on it too, and said farewell to our dear and charming companions.
The jeep went fairly fast until just passed Drosh. We hit a rather large bump, a big crash, and we went down on one side – the back suspension gone! So out we all got, lay under a tree. A small boy picked me some mimosa (at least I think it was).
Unbelievably, they mended it, with bits of old string etc in one and a quarter hours. So off again for a few moments – stop – the back tyre and our bedroll have fallen off! After that no hitches, a stop for chai – free again what hospitality – but all the time the driver looks anxious ‘jeep finish’ he says – and regards the front suspension dubiously!
Chitral at last! Hidden among trees, and barely visible. Polo match just over and people leaving. We went to the Chitral Mountain Inn, and even successfully bargained for a room (Peter‘s name does the trick – even in the book, PSC Parkes!). Lovely room, best beds in the east, private bathroom – lemon squash, filtered water. Exhausted and aching, struggled out to supper, first thing to eat all day, and then collapsed in bed.
Vicky's Big Adventure 